Deepak Patel, Co-Founder of Metta Journeys, kept this daily account of our September 2009 trip to benefit Women for Women International in Bosnia and Herzegovina. All photos by Craig B. Smith.

September 19, Saturday
The journey for the 2009 Metta Journeys Bosnia trip is on the way.  It is September 19 and after a long day conducting a board of trustees retreat at Holy Trinity High School in Chicago, I bolted out to catch my flight to Frankfurt and onto to Sarajevo.  My flights to B/H were uneventful, on time and the luggage showed up.  Unlike my December 2008 location scouting trip, my landing was amazing as I stared out the window to notice the green landscaped hills.  It certainly was a contrast to my earlier visit and I was happy.  After claiming my luggage, I had cleared customs and I was staring at Adnan Dzano, the assistant executive director of WFWI in Bosnia/Herzegovina.  It had been a fast trip.

September 20, Sunday
As I arrived at the newly renovated Hotel Europe, I was surprised at the activity and number of people in the hotel area.  September 20 & 21 are EID el-FITR religious holidays and a celebration after observing Ramadan for almost a month.  Sunday night in the Old town of Sarajevo was buzzing with people celebrating the holidays.  Alma from WFWI had booked a meeting room with A/V equipment and they were ready to show off their organization to the Metta Journeys group.  We all met at 5:45pm and were greeted by smiling faces which included Seida, Adnan, Raziya, Alma & Nudzjema.  After a brief welcome by me, Seida presented WFWI operations in B/H which is comprised of programs serving women across the country and a robust microfinance 7.5mm Euro portfolio.  Following the presentation we gathered for dinner and more conversation.  The group then moved over to watch the movie ‘Grbavica’  and while some of the group was engulfed in watching the film, some left to catch up with jetlag and I rushed to the airport to pick-up Kathryn Van Vliet, she was the last arrival for the group.  When we returned to the meeting room, the movie was over and we were off to bed.  Everyone was anxious to see what was in store for them on September 21 as I asked everyone to meet in the lobby at 7:30am.

September 21, Monday
It was a short night and an early morning, as we all gathered in the breakfast room.  Everyone looked energized and was excited to meet Nudjzema and Raza from WFWI along with our interpreters, Edina, Osman and Irnisa.  We all packed into two waiting vans and we were off on a winding journey to Srebrenica and the Potocari Memorial.  These sites are located in the predominantly Serbian Republic of Srpska and are the sites of a most horrific genocide which included a massacre of 8200 Bosnian Muslims.  After a 3-hour drive, we first stopped to meet Fata Orlic, a 70+ year old Muslim woman who is a symbol of resistance against injustice.  While Fata was in a refugee camp, the local orthodox priest commissioned and built a church on her property.   She has sued for its removal and been counter sued, intimidated, arrested and offered 2.5mm KM (US$2.00 mm) for this small property, but refuses to give in.  In 2007, the high court has ruled in her favor and has asked the church to be relocated.  But the Serbs and local politicians won’t do it.  She has dug her heels and will not give up until the church is removed and moved to a community where people can take advantage of such a place.  In her community there are no orthodox Christians and the closest are 2 villages away.  She cannot understand why the local community will not relocate the church.  Her battle continues…

We arrived at Potocari Memorial for a sobering presentation on the atrocities committed against innocent people - mostly women and children.  All through the presentation, I kept asking myself ‘how can I have ignored such acts? Why did I do nothing?’  I keep thinking of Amir and Ravi, my two sons, while I read about how some boys and girls were killed.  These images were powerful.  We paid our respects are the graveyard and witnessed a Muslim prayer with a mualim (Muslim priest).  Lunch at the local restaurant was the perfect distraction before we made some home visits.  The restaurant was ‘FANTASTIC’ and Abdullah the owner was so attentive.  Apparently, one of the WFWI had called in ahead to alert him that a hungry group of Americans were coming over.  So he prepared a feast of organically grown vegetables, chicken and veal.  Yummy, is all I will say. 

After lunch, we broke up into two groups; one visited Abida and the other visited Fazilla.  My group drove a few km, parked and walked up to meet Abida Osmanovic.  She is a tough woman with lots of mental strain since she was 6-years old.  During the war she lost her husband and two teenage boys and is survived by her daughter who continues to experience trauma and mental strain as well.  Again, I question where I was when this was happening.  She has been called as a witness for the war crimes trial in The Hague.  And she is debating if she should attend as she fears for her daughter.  Abida has clearly taken on a different persona since graduating from WFWI 4-years ago.  She saw hope until the global recession hit and continues to pray.  Abida has taken advantage of Heifer International partnership with WFWI and secured 100 chickens and a goat.  Life continues for all…
The drive back to Sarajevo was uneventful and everyone was drained.  Only Kerry Rizzo, Craig Smith and I attended dinner at Princes’ Garden restaurant.  We were joined by Seida and Adnan and I invited Goran our driver, a 24-year old Serbian Croat who was national karate champion and works for CITO Rent a Car.  We had a hearty discussion about our day, I inquired about what B/H needs to do to start healing.  Safe to say nothing was resolved, but we have a better understanding of the local environment. 
It is 2:00am and time to go to bed…

September 22, Tuesday
I woke up to another beautiful and sunny 70°F day.  Our morning was spent at WFWI office.  As we arrived, we were met by an enthusiastic staff that were hugging and greeting us.  We made ourselves to Seida’s office where Bosnian coffee and holiday (EID) sweets were waiting for everyone.  After brief introductions amongst the group and the staff members, we broke up into two groups.  One attended the weaving and embroidery presentation while the other group joined in a ‘human rights’ class. 
The embroidery/weaving group shared their work and explained the work they are doing for Kate Spade, the global designer accessories brand.  While this was happening, one of our travelers, Susan de Espinosa, got to meet her new sister.  It was an inspiring moment.  When I returned back to the embroidery class, the sisters had started a Q&A with the group.  They want more ‘Kate Spade’ types of projects and are committed to working hard to make it successful except they don’t know how to get such projects.  There were ideas exchanged which included using the internet, trade shows etc. 

I then spent a brief time in the ‘home economics’ lecture which was focused on the importance of budgeting and analysis.  The lecturer was explaining that in order to avoid surprises, it is important to write down the revenue and expenses every month and compare to actual so you can adjust for the future.  Kerry Rizzo commented that while this is a difficult habit, it is important to develop the practice and it will help in the future.  Leslie Murphy was too emotional to talk.  One of Metta Journeys’ major objectives, 1-on-1 connection was really happening in front of me.  It made me smile.  Adnan and Nudzejma interrupted our class to escort us out to lunch with Seida.  The group had a quick lunch and we prepared to leave for village of Ahmici. 

It was an hour drive to the village and we were greeted by the Ahmici Women’s organization members.  This is a co-operative which works together to support each other.   It struck me that much like our earlier journeys to Rwanda in support of WFWI; these sisters were thrilled with a visit.  I think they see each other and WFWI staff quite frequently.  So visitors from outside the country play a bigger role in the healing process for these women.  They feel appreciated and it helps their self confidence by interacting with outside visitors.  The MJ group felt welcome; they had a gift prepared for each one of us.  And more importantly they had delicious food and we all had lunch again.  We returned home for a short rest and we were off to dinner at Tavola.  The meal was delicious, but we were not prepared for the adventure that lay ahead.  After dinner, Nudzejma, Kerry and Fiona decided to go to a hookah lounge.  Craig, Phil, Seida and I decided to join.  This was truly a unique form of bonding, as we started sucking on apple/mint smoke.  Stories from our teenage years, unique pick-up lines, being arrested in Tokyo while trying to swim in the imperial pool, current teenage sartorial choices and the like were the topics of conversation until well past midnight. 
Finally, everyone decided to walk back to the hotel and go to sleep… Looking forward to another fun day...

                 
September 23, Wednesday
Once again, we are blessed with a perfect sunny day.  It seems there is lots of anticipation today.  I have an idea why some of the women are anxious and it will be apparent pretty soon.
Our day started with a 90-minute drive to Kraljeva Sutjeska, a beautiful village amongst towering mountains along the River Bosna.  We were met by Mualima (female Muslim priest) Elvedina Plasto.  Elvedina is a priest at the mosque and teaches religion to children.  She showed us around the oldest mosque in Bosnia, dating back to the 1470’s.  Osman, our male interpreter, prepared himself to conduct a prayer.  After he was done, he provided a brief summary to explain the meaning behind the practice while we were walking over to Elvedina’s home.  She had prepared coffee and sweets for the group.  We were introduced to a traditional Bosnian home where all the sitting was on the ground on futons.  As we delved into the sweets, where plum jam was a hit, our discussion moved towards religion.  Craig noted that he found it interesting that the room was filled with Muslims, Christians (catholic and others), Jews, Buddhists and Hindus.  It really was a deep theological discussion and I feel everyone got the best opportunity to learn about Islam. 

Our next stop was at the Kakanj Women’s’ Center where the MJ group were the guests of honor for the graduation ceremonies for 104 women from the program.  There clearly was excitement in the hall.  The MJ group was humbled as each lady was asked to hand out graduation certificate.  I could see this was a profound moment for all the ladies.  I’m thinking, wow, MJ is really connecting people.  Little did I know that best was yet to come.  After the certificates were handed out, everyone was invited to lunch and to view the ‘Women in Action’ products.  Once again, lunch was a feast of home made pastries, meats pies, assortment of breads and more.  As we all ate, several of the graduates came over and offered their artwork as gifts to the MJ women.  It was quite a sight. 
After lunch, we were off to Zenica to the WFWI office which is actually referred as ‘women’s support center’.  When we got there, Leslie Murphy’s first sister from the program waiting there with her entire family.  All I can say is WOW! A moment captured in time.  As we walked into the offices, Kerry Rizzo met her new sister as did Susan de Espinosa and Kathryn Van Vliet.  Leslie decided to go with her sister to visit her 80-year mother.  An hour had passed and all the women had not stopped chatting.  I did anger one of the sisters when I said it was time to go.  I am sure these women will remain connected.  Kerry Rizzo commented that her sister was the perfect and only match on the planet for her.  Leslie wanted me to cancel the rest of the program so she could hang with her sister.  Alas, I could not accommodate such requests, but I reminded everyone to figure out a way to continue this amazing energy.  The drive back to Sarajevo was busy with the chatter of questions and responses.  Most of the discussion revolved around how they felt connected, it gave the sisters courage and self confidence, and the staff of WFWI felt we had tools to find more sponsors.  We are off to dinner at Fellini’s tonight.   Speak with everyone tomorrow.

September 24, Thursday
Today was a sad day.  After 3-days of amazing connections, starting new friendships and really enjoying our time in Sarajevo, it was time to leave.  Seida and Raziya came over to wish us goodbye.
At late morning, we were off to Dubrovnik.  Along the way we stopped in Mostar, a medieval town surrounded by olive green trees and along the river whose name I forget.  Again, our exchanges revolved over food at Café Labyrinth which is perfectly located along the Neretva River facing the oldest bridge in town.  As we discussed local delicacies, like cevapcici, we watched a sporting young man diving off the bridge.  He got a loud cheer from the crowd that had gathered around to watch.  Soon after lunch, we headed back to our parked vans and we were off to Dubrovnik.  It was a quiet drive as everyone enjoyed the breathtaking scenery along the Croatian coast.  We arrived at our beautiful hotel, the Dubrovnik Palace, in time for dinner.  More important than the food at Elaphite Restaurant was the conversation and the recollections of the group from the past three days in Bosnia.  While some were interested in the administrative operations of WFWI, some focused on the sisters and the rest talked about the dark cloud that still hovers over Bosnia.  It was the general consensus that, while the stories we heard about Bosnian Muslims and their experiences were horrible, we needed to get comments from the Croatians and Serbians for a much rounded well-informed opinion.  Our conversation went deep into the night as we tried to speculate what it would take for this region, a melting pot of stubborn cultures with rich history and strong religious barriers, to live in peace and harmony.  The answers were varied; time, it would take three generations for the groups to live together, plus the acceptance of accountability by all parties on what they had done and a general consensus to move on.  As we talked we linked the people we met in Bosnia to the solutions we ponder tonight.  Finally I brought everyone to the present by summarizing the schedule for the next day, a day cruise through Elaphite Islands.  With that we walked to our rooms for a well deserved rest.

September 25, Friday
It is an overcast morning, but everyone is excited about venturing into the Adriatic Sea.  After breakfast, we are off to the harbor to board ‘Marina Mala’ owned and operated by Zoran and Goge.  They were waiting for us and were anxious to hit the high seas.  As we made our way to the Elaphite Islands, the group began to relax and take in the sites. 
The Elaphites are a collage of 1300 islands along the Croatian coast.  Many are uninhabited.  Our first stop was Lopud Island with a population of 170 residents, primarily retired.  I quickly decided that this was an island I would love to return and spend some time exploring.  Walking along the beach I couldn’t help but notice how clear the ocean looked; I could easily see 30 to 40 feet below the surface.  Coupled with the beautiful landscaping and homes that have stood for centuries, it was a step back in time.  I have already planned a future vacation with no electronic devices, loads of books and plenty of conversation while exploring this island. 
We reluctantly sailed from Lopud and made our way to Kolocep Island.  It was a bit more developed with couple of hotels, but felt peaceful and pristine.  After a long walk through the paths and alleys discovering lavender flowers and tasting red grapes we were back in the boat for a lunch at sea.  Goge had prepared a delicious lunch of local veggies and Red Dragon fish (also known as Red Snapper).  Wow! Perfect setting in a boat with new friends and conversation over a home prepared meal. 

Our final stop was at the island of Sipan.  Unlike the previous islands we visited where bicycles and golf carts are used for transportation, Sipan has cars.  Clearly there is more going on here with galleries, vacation homes and bicycle paths throughout the island for the active lifestyle.  A quick glance at my watch told me it was time to head back to Dubrovnik.  An hour of sailing, napping with cool ocean breeze and we were back in the harbor.  It was unanimously agreed this day cruise was the most amazing experience. 
Back at the hotel, everyone relaxed and prepared to go Gil’s for dinner.  Set in the old town along the original harbor, Gil’s offers a picturesque setting along the water under the open skies.  The cuisine was fusion, but we are all trying to decide ‘of what’.  More than the meal, I believe the group enjoyed walking through the streets and alleys of the old town of Dubrovnik.  I sensed that everyone was missing ‘good old American’ food. 
It is late and bed is calling……

September 26, Saturday
There are not activities planned for the morning.  Everyone is relaxing by the pool, spending time at the spa or catching up lost sleep.
The MJ gang is gathered in the lobby to meet up with our afternoon walking tour of Old Dubrovnik guided by Mira Knevezic.  We fell in love with Mira and her school teacher approach to leading the group through Old Dubrovnik.  In contrast to Bosnia, we visited a Franciscan monastery, Dominican church and cathedral.  We learnt about the buildings that were destroyed during the Balkan war and those that were fixed.  I had forgotten to mention that Old Dubrovnik is a UNESCO World Heritage site and it is supposedly protected by the UN.  Getting Mira’s view of the Balkan War gave everyone a great insight into the current psyche.  Listening to our guide narrate the history of Yugoslavia, Turkish occupation, the deep wounds that Croatians and Bosnians have and the hatred displayed by the Serbs went a long way to all of us understanding what happened.  The group agreed that none of us knew or understood eastern European history and the lack of media coverage of the Balkan wars complicated any understanding of the situation and the people. 
After a long tour full of questions fired at Mira, we all converged at Restaurant Nautika, a local seafood restaurant at the entrance of Old town with a perfect view of the Adriatic.  Dinner here was memorable with fresh seafood, great Croatian wine and, surprise, lots of conversation.   Once dinner was over, we piled into our van and off to Dubrovnik Palace.  Everyone was anxious to pack…

September 27, Sunday
I was up at 4:15am to see Dave & Susan Knapp + Kerry Rizzo off in a taxi to make their 6:25am flight.  Phil Eck & Leslie Murphy left at 10:30am and Craig Smith at 1:30pm
Sitting on my balcony I am reflecting on the last week and I am proud of what everyone did to make this trip possible. 
People ask me what Metta Journeys does.  And my response is always that we partner with international NGOs to design unique donor experiences which include meaningful 1-on-1 connections, culture immersion and exotic travel.
Congratulations to MJ, mission objective achieved and more….